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How to Store Your Pics: Storing Your Files With A System
By © Jay Watson
The goal of this tutorial is to show you that by setting up a structured file system for storage of your images,
you can create an adaptable and expandable workflow for the future. If you ever wish to change or move your images
to a different structure, having the work separated into subfolders will make the task easier. Furthermore, you
will eliminate redundancy of storing multiple copies of the same image, saving hard drive space and time. Images
are grouped into subfolders which identify the contents of the folders with their intended purpose. For more info
and tips from my workflow, please refer to the tutorial:
"How To Store Your Pics: Steps To A Sane Digital Workflow."
1. Set up a main project folder on your hard drive
Subject_YYMMDD ( ex: SanFrancisco_060930 )
Name the main folder with a very basic tag (1-2 words) so you can retrace your thoughts in the future. This
should be followed in a manner of priority such as:
- Subject name (last name of person, object, product)
- Location name (place, location, city, town)
- Client name (Pepsi, MensJournal, Lexar, etc)
File naming methods are different for each photographer. Some suggest starting with the photographer's last name or initials
with each file no matter what subject in the images. This method is a formulaic strategy that saves time, but more
importantly the photographer's name is rooted in the file name every time it leaves the computer. I fully endorse this
method of file naming, but the basic 1-2 word subject description can also function as a simple catalog structure when
viewed through your computer's operating system. For students and photographers who move their files between multiple
computers using hard drives, the simplicity can be a savior.
About the "YYMMDD" ex: "060930" is from the shoot day September 9th, 2006.
Adding the date is important! Using the format above, the date will put the subject in numerical order. You might shoot the same subject, location, or client more than once.
2. Set up a series of subfolders:
"ORG" stands for original files. They are JPEG & RAW captured files and film scans. A suffix is added to signify the source
of the original file.
File examples:
- SanFrancisco_060931_001.NEF (.CRW) Nikon .NEF, Canon .CRW, etc. raw files
- SanFrancisco_060931_001_org.jpg JPEG captured original file
- SanFrancisco_R7289_36_scan.tIf Scan from Roll 7289 shot 36
Original files are digitally captured files from the camera or by a scanner. They remain untouched. No PhotoShop work should
happen to these files. Create a copy of these files for your PhotoShop adjustments.. Keep original files for the future in
case you need to start over with an image. Use a file browser such as Adobe Bridge to Batch rename, delete files, rate,
rotate, and add basic metadata.
File examples:
- SanFrancisco_060931_001_M.TIF
- SanFrancisco_060931_001_master.TIF
A master file is generated from the original file as needed, and can be considered a "derivative" file. It has been retouched
and adjusted in PhotoShop. Since this represents your best working version of the image, it is suggested (but not necessary)
to do your image editing on 16bit versions of the image captured in either a RAW camera format or from a 16bit film scan.
Only non-destructive PhotoShop adjustments should be made to this file. Use layers to enable future adjustments, and
"SAVE AS" a TIFF to preserve the layers and embed the PhotoShop color profile into the file.
File examples:
- SanFrancisco_060931_001.jpg - Web or email use
- SanFrancisco_060931_001_WEB.jpg - Sized specifically to match the specs of a web gallery.
- SanFrancisco_060931_001_HR.jpg - High Resolution version for uploading to a printing service vender.
Keep email, and web sized files here. Images in this subfolder are generated from the master files so that their PhotoShop
adjustments will carry over to these "derivative" files. Files here are created on an as needed basis. Even if you captured
with the JPEG format, it is important to set up a JPEG subfolder, as this folder will house the lower resolution versions of
the large size master TIFF files.
Note about low resolution "proof" images: When I create low res JPEG files to build a web gallery, proof prints, or email for
the sole purpose of a client to make selections, I perform this task from the original captured files. This saves time during
the proofing stage which usually happens before master files are needed. In this situation, the proof jpegs are placed into a
"PROOF" subfolder and usually thrown away once the client has made their selections.
File examples:
- SanFrancisco_060931_001_client.tif - Files that went to the client. Keeps track of what was delivered.
- SanFrancisco_060931_001_flat.tif - Version of the master file with PhotoShop layers flattened.
- SanFrancisco_060931_001_print.tif - For delivery to a lab for printing
- SanFrancisco_060931_001_11X14.tif - A version of the master file sized an 11"X14" print.
- SanFrancisco_060931_001_CMYK.tif - For delivery to an offset press for printing. Color corrected.
Files in the TIFF folder are derived from the master files on an as needed basis. Their purpose is normally for high
resolution output such as client delivery, offset press, and off-site printing by photo labs. Since these files are leaving
the photographer's workplace they do not need to be 16bit layered files, therefore they are converted to 8bit and the
PhotoShop layers are flattened. Additional suffixes could be added to any of the derivative files above for purposes as
needed when they arise. It is good to be consistent in your methods, however the idea is to add a simple way to label
the file to signify its purpose. Theoretically files in the TIFF subfolder can eventually be deleted since they are generated
from the larger sized master files.
Hope this helps you with your workflow! For more info and a list of resources refer to the tutorial:
"How To Store Your Pics: Steps To A Sane Digital Workflow."
Jay Watson Bio
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